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Selection and Application of Interlinings

AddTime:2015-06-22 09:58:06   Views:     【 Big Mid Small 】   Print   Close

Interlining, that melt interlining, is a hot melt adhesive applied to the base fabric lining made. In 1952, interlining was born in England, began in the 1970s in our application. Today, the widespread use of interlining has become an important symbol of modern clothing technology. It not only simplifies garment making, increase productivity, reduce production costs, but also the performance of modern clothing style, improve garment quality.
With the popularity of interlining, how to choose and use interlining, it has become an issue of concern garment technicians, to make a presentation on the following types of interlining, function, selection methods and applications issues.
Kind of fusible interlining
Fusible interlining, also known as hot-melt, hot lining, interlining cloth can coating lining, sealing lining, pressure hot materials. It is based on the coating material, a collection of different shapes, base fabric, hot melt type, purpose, etc., are divided into different categories.
Fusible use different hot-melt adhesive to produce different effects on the fabric of the great. Therefore, under normal circumstances interlining more hot melt adhesive according to the kind of classification, can be divided into the following four categories:
(1) Polyamide (PA) interlining: copolymer made of three or more different monomers from nylon, the ratio between the component and the monomer monomer varies, hot melt properties are also different, However, bonded have a better feel (soft, flexible) and high bond strength, good resistance to dry cleaning, and more for men and women suits, jackets class.
(2) Polyethylene (PE) Fusible (high density and low density of the points): High-density polyethylene has good stiffness effect, washable and resistant to dry, but it must be at a higher temperature and pressure will has a good effect, it is widely used in shirts adhesive; washable and resistant to dry-cleaning properties of LDPE are poor, but can be bonded at lower temperatures, and has good adhesive strength, it is widely used in temporary bonding.
(3) polyester (PES) interlining: copolymer of a dibasic acid and a glycol together, better resistance to washing and dry-cleaning properties, high adhesive strength of its polyester fiber fabric, used for polyester simulation silk fabric, silk fabric particularly suitable for thin and thick wool-like material.
(4) ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) interlining: copolymer of ethylene and vinyl acetate from ethylene and vinyl combination of available low-melting heat Sol, just use iron bonding process can be completed, washable, dry cleaning resistance are poor, for the use of fur clothing.
In garment production, the main types of interlining are using stereotypes lining, reinforcement lining, stiff lining and padding lining. Stereotypes lining to make clothing moldability, shape retention, mainly for predecessor, chest lining, collar lining, noodles, collar. Reinforcing fabric lining correct oblique tension, prevent stretch fabrics, mainly for the shoulders, armholes, hem of stays, collar lining, button door, pocket, flap, central panties. Stiff lining make clothing crisp, smooth, so that the fabric stiff, mainly used for the collar, cuffs, placket, belt, under collar. A partially filled filling clothes lining, making it plump, mainly used to support part of the shoulder, sleeve.
Role fusible interlining
It originally used on clothing interlining main purpose is to make suturing more rationalization and labor saving. Later, as interlining base fabric, hot melt coating method of continuous improvement, also expanded the role of interlining. Interlining in clothing role can be summarized as follows:
(1) to make clothing satisfactory shape, play a role in skeleton. Without affecting the fabric feel, style premise, with the interlining of stiffness and elasticity, very flat or clothing can achieve the desired shape.
(2) increase the capacity and strength of anti-wrinkle clothing. On the thin fabric clothing collar, lapels parts and placket with fusible interlining and predecessor, allows very flat and anti-wrinkle clothing. After lining of clothing, because more than a layer of protection and fixed lining, so that the fabric (especially at provincial and joints) can not easily be worn over stretch, making clothing more durable.
(3) make clear straight hem and beautiful clothing, play a modified, beautifying effect. In Flap clothing such as only the mouth, panties cuffs and cuff, hem and hem side slits with interlining, etc., can make a line more straight and clear, to make clothing look more beautiful.
(4) maintain a stable structure shapes and sizes of clothing. Cut the film some good clothes curved shape, wire lock tilt parts, such as lead nest, armhole, etc., in the use of interlining, garment design and size can ensure stability. Clothing worn in some parts vulnerable to the force of the tension and deformation, such as pocket, button doors, etc., can make it difficult to use after tensile deformation interlining, garment form stable appearance.
(5) A thick clothing and clothing to improve insulation.
(6) to improve the processability of clothing. A thin, flexible thin silk and knitted etc. single sewing process, due to processing difficulties leaving easy grip, can be improved with after interlining sewing process may hold property.

 

Interlining choice
Interlining fabric by hot melt adhesive liquid adhesion, wetting and penetration, to achieve the purpose of fabric attached. Therefore interlining and fabric in the following areas must be reasonable compatibility: fabric and fusible interlining thickness compatibility; fabric and fusible interlining retraction compatibility; interlining fabric and style, feel; fabric and fusible interlining color compatibility compatibility. Described above is the fabric with interlining general principle of compatibility, here are some of the specific circumstances of varieties of fabric and fusible interlining compatible to facilitate choose the right interlining.
Fabrics made more sensitive to temperature and pressure, should choose a lower melting point interlining. Polyester and nylon and other synthetic fabrics do not absorb water, thermal constancy, hot pressing is not easy to eliminate wrinkles, so pressing temperature should be below the set temperature, should choose a good adhesive polyester or polyamide interlining .
Uneven fabric surface high pressure will damage the surface adhesion characteristics of fabric, should choose low-voltage Fusible, crude fulcrum like soft woven interlining or interlining dot knit.
Smooth surface of the fabric prone to bleeding gums, rough surface, fine particles should choose interlining, as the fine mesh support or a sheet of soft woven interlining non-woven interlining. Should choose the same elastic fabric elastic lining. Drape strong fabric should choose soft knit or woven interlining interlining. Stiff interlining nonwoven fabric should choose. Soft fabric should choose soft woven or knitted interlining interlining.
Different fabric styles, select the interlining should also be different. Transparent or translucent fabric is easy to produce bleeding gums or reflective particles, so to choose the color of the base fabric and delicate fine particles, such as color of fine, high-net soft woven interlining or color of 10 g flaky, isotropic type interlining.
Equipment and Technology
Garment processing in the bonding process is a very important part of the process, but also is prone to aspects of quality problems, the general clothing manufacturers are using a special pressing machine for bonding, more assured quality. Iron is more commonly used in the bonding process tool. The use of the general thermostat pressure hot iron, easy operation, low cost, suitable for small size, low melting interlining and temporary pressure hot processing, but the use of iron Pressing time, pressure is difficult to control, bonding effect is not guaranteed.
There are flat-bonding machine bonding machine, roll type bonders two kinds. Among them, the plate bonders main push-plate stick machine, rotary plate sticking plate roll machine and stepper machine three. Push-plate stick machine has two working table rotation replacement work, simple structure, low price, there is no cooling system, no separate heating position, likely to cause "fingerprints" bonding defects, suitable for small and medium-coated tablets bonding. Rotary plate stick machine does not exist "fingerprints" bonding defects, according to set automatic swing tempo, small labor intensity, quality assurance bond, but large area, the price is relatively high. Stepping Plate roller machine combines the advantages of the plate and roll bonder, high efficiency, good quality adhesive is adhered shirt, ideal for small models of the garment. Roll bonders horizontal, vertical and desktop (mini) three. Horizontal roller fixing machine for large-scale garment sheet bonding process requires two operators, one after the operation. Vertical roller stick machine has a curved channel, the adhesive-coated tablets are "both inside and outside" effect, small footprint, one person can operate, but there are some irritating odor. Desktop roll bonders primarily designed for small garment enterprises, lower cost, lower power consumption, but the lack of automation and control performance.
Clothing enterprises in the choice bonders, must be comprehensive consideration of its temperature, pressure, time, spare parts, assembly precision and overall performance. In operation bonder should note the following: according to the different fabrics and interlining capability, selected different bonding speed, pressure and temperature in order to achieve the best results; do not put any hard objects, such as scissors, rulers, needles placed on the table to prevent damage to the fluorine band; interlining must be "positive release" and less than the fabric, otherwise it will cause the belt to face a glue left or penetrate tension axis, the fluorine with deformation; such as transparent plastic in serious condition, may Consider using double-stick adhesive tape to insure the fluorine clean and durable; any miscellaneous foreign objects inside the shaft tension involved, should be cleaned; it should be cleaned frequently with a surface, such as fluorine with more glue, adjustable slow speed, with a soft cloth James silicone wipe clean, and always close to the shaft shovel plate; clean with a cloth to keep clean, and replace with clean cloth; machine must be allowed to cool down to a stop, turn off the main power before they can leave.
Pressing interlining has three basic elements: the pressing temperature, time and pressure hot Pressing pressure. Pressing temperature is the primary factor pressure hot bonding. In order to achieve the best combination of fabrics and lining, you must master temperature conditions. Pressing temperature strength, have a direct impact on the fabric of peel adhesion elasticity, stiffness degree. Pressing time is the temperature of complementary conditions. Pressing the appropriate time to make the hot melt adhesive to penetrate and permeate the fabric and spread to the interior of the fabric, helping improve the peel strength. Pressing too long but will have strike-peel strength but will decline. Pressing pressure varies depending on the type of hot melt adhesive, based on experience and effectiveness need to be considered.


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